Tilapia in Crazy Water

One fish, two fish; bad fish, good fish.

You’re standing at the fish counter, trying to decide what to make for dinner. You want to eat more fish– after all, it’s good for you, right? Except when it isn’t, because of mercury and other contaminants. So– some  fish is good for you. But which ones?? It’s like a bad Dr. Seuss rhyme, and it’s too hard, so maybe you should just have chicken. Again.


Actually, while there is no hard and fast rule– some farmed fish is better than some wild, and visa versa– the best way to know which fish to buy and eat is to let the experts guide you. For years, when I wrote stories on fish, nutrition and sustainability, I interviewed the experts at Seafood Watch, a group that is part of Monterey Bay Aquarium. Now I keep their app on my phone, and pull it up at the store whenever I have a question.

Some fish suffer from an undeserved bad reputation. Tilapia, a low calorie, easily affordable, good source of protein has been unfairly maligned: despite some sensationalist headlines, it is good for you and is generally responsibly farmed. The mild, flaky fish is adaptable to all sorts of preparations, but on a busy weeknight, this fast, tasty dish is one of my favorites.

Crazy water" is a translation from the Italian name for this very flavorful broth that is based on water. (It's crazy that water can taste this good, and that such a tasty broth can be this easy!) You can certainly poach other kinds of fish in crazy water: try cod, arctic char, bass, catfish and branzino, for example.

1 tablespoon olive oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 pint cherry tomatoes
2 cups water
1/2 cup white wine
1/4 teaspoon thyme
1/4 teaspoon fennel seeds
2 tablespoons butter
1 1/2 pounds tilapia filet
1/2  teaspoon salt

Heat the oil in a Dutch oven or deep skillet over medium high. Add the garlic, cook, stirring, 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes, water, wine, thyme and fennel seeds and bring to a boil. Continue boiling 15 minutes, until broth colors and becomes slightly thickened. Reduce heat to simmer. Swirl in the butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, until melted.

Season the fish with salt and place in the skillet; spoon some liquid over the fish and gently simmer until fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes.